Tuck's virgin Trip report 4-25-09

[tgrant]

Sorry for the long post. I have taken most of this from my personal journal.

Background: I am a 35 year old cube anchored networking engineer. I have considerable skiing experience but minimal BC hours logged. I have skiied two days in the backcountry of Utah. Two days in Colorado (near Vail). I ski on average of 8-15 days of year and have zero issue skiing most any terrain in a resort (Alta, Jackson Hole, Squaw, Mammoth, Vail) regardless of conditions. Since moving to New England from the West Coast, Tuckermans has been on the punch list. I have zero avalanche course experience, but I have trained in beacon based rescue and basic probe search techniques. Probably more dangerous but at least well intended I have poured through as much as possible from texts (my two favorites are The Avalanche Handbook and Surviving in Avalanche Country). Basically I admittedly suffer from private pilot syndrome (enough knowledge to have confidence not enough time to hone the skills and stay polished). I have also spent some days in the White Mountains doing winter camping all trips started from the Highland Lodge.

For all intents and purposes I consider myself a true BC green horn. I made several key mistakes this last weekend, and all in all was lucky. Walked away with a thirst to come back, but with an aftertaste distinct enough to know it will have to be done more prudently to move from a 95% chance of survival to 99.9% chance.

Here is my trip notes (including gear, conditions, and decisions (good and bad).

I went solo to Tucks. I don't have any personal friends in New England that I could buddy up with, hence I intentionally set out for a weekend where at least there would be some folks in proximity.

4-22-09 Checked Avi Report (Very Low)
- Very little new snow over the past few weeks with continued solidification and detoriating Spring Snow pack due to rains and afternoon melt.
- Note: Hillman's Highway slide on 4-14 (fracture line at top of the gulley) with two carried. Both Survived, but reading the reports their injuries seemed unexplicably light. They were both carried over a rock cliff, traveled in excess of 500 vertical feet and came to a stop in a runout area with significant number of small trees ( I think they stopped in an area called The Christmas Tree).
Almost cancelled trip.
4-23-09 Checked Avi Report (High Considerable)
- 10.5-14" of Fresh snow (preceded by rain) on top of solidified slick Spring snow pack. Perfect slide conditions.
- Decided to go ahead with trip but modified my itinerary. Instead of making the trek in a single day moving lite and fast where I would be more inclined to ski no matter what, I decided to "slow" the trip (hike in Friday, assess Saturday, hike out Sunday). This meant taking Friday off and hauling gear to Hermit Shelters if I could get a ticket.

4-24-09 Checked Avi Report (High Moderate).
- Avi report was done later in the morning than usual. Conditions appeared to be getting Slightly better as stabliization was taking place with warmer weather.
11:30AM Arrived at Pinkham Notch Visitors Center.
- Obtained Hermit Lakes Ticket for Fri/Sat. I got the 72nd ticket (when I had called on the way up around 10AM there were 50 tickets already out), later I believe it was determined 76 total stayed Fri night in the shelters). Knowing there would be experienced folks seemd to me that there was a good opportunity to ask questions and get some feel for the conditions.
- Gear Check (having second thoughts about the avalanche conditions)
- Went to Conway to Purchase Ortivex M2 Avi Beacon (had rented on previous BC trips)
1:50PM Weighed pack in (74lbs with Boots and Skis) and started up
- The most I had carried before was about 40 lbs (skinning for an overnight with a relatively flat route).
- temp was near 50 degrees.
- Trail head was dirt/mud. Started up with Poles and trail shoes.
- At approximately 1 mile up trail snow coverage was enough to start skinning. First time up steep enough terrain using the climbing levelers on my Marker Dukes. Wanted to get the weight off my back and get more vertical climbing experience in the AT gear. Worked great on any incline, uncomfortable on flat terrain (pushing balance forward, but not prudent to keep stepping out and switching modes). Left them engaged for most of the climb up. Took breaks about every 10-15 minutes or so. Stopped half a dozen times to take pack off and restup. First clue here in regards to the shape I am in (which I am embarrased by).

[tgrant]

4-25-09 Avi Conditions (Moderate)
6:00 AM Wake-up
- Had a good stretch and BreakFast relatively solo on the sundeck. Wanted to get an early start to leave plenty of time for options and route decisions.
8:00AM Departed for ravine floor Left most of gear in the Lean-To
- In a light daypack I carried a jacket, probe, shovel, first aid pack, Ice Axe, cordulette, climbing harness, glove liners, helmet. I put my Beacon on at Ho Jos.
- I left my twin rope and other protection gear as I was solo and could not seem to find any other skiiers carrying similar gear. Thought maybe I had over analyzed what it took to get up the chutes.
- Hiked in Ski boots with skis on Back (skins on)

9:15AM arrived at ravine floor (1.2 Miles 600 Vertical Feet)
- Skinned from Mini-headwall to Lunch Rocks First Aid Cache
- Sat at top of lunch rocks for 20 minute Break
- Purposely sat with a larger rock above me. I had a football size ice chunck roll by me within 15 feet after sitting for only 10 minutes. I took this as a sign things were warming up faster than I had anticipated.
- There were probably only a dozen or so folks in the ravine with about another dozen or so folks I could see already climbing up the runs.
10:00AM Started up Right Gully (~600 Vertical feet with sustained pitch of 35 and top of chute at 50 degrees).
- This was a very bad mistake on my part. I was trying to heed advice by staying away from the headwall and the sluice, but after 10 minutes of climbing I realized the consequences of a fall from the boot steps (30-40MPH slide into the top of exposed Lunch Rocks). I had initially started up this route because the boot steps seemed to follow a well protected route with decent anchorage around the rocks and some meandering side protection along skiiers left of the gulley, but I had not thought about the run out. This also made me change my route down which meant I would not be skiing what I had climbed. I was thankful I was wearing my helmet (despite the temperature) and gloves along with my jacket. I had unzippered the armpits and my snowpants along the thighs, but I always try and wear at least shell clothing in case of a fall and/or if I get carried in a slide (Mentors and texts all say that Hypothermia and ice abrasions can at least be kept in check - you don't wear it for comfort when all goes well). I also stupidly left my avalung in my pack intending to put it on at the top. I was shocked to see others climbing the bootsteps in shorts and a t-shirt with skis over the shoulder. At first I took this as my inexperience, but later in the day I determined this was downright foolish (you can flame me if you want). Fitness was a factor as well, as I started having mild quad cramps about 3/4 of the way up. Pot committed at this point. A slide in the right gulley would have piled snow higher than was seen in the other slides and regardless of whether I got pulled out would have most likely meant a bashing amongst the rocks in the flow.
11:30AM Cleared the top of the Right Gully
- Given the decreased grade and good weather I started heading up the Upper Snow Fields intending on summiting (weather was perfect for it at 50+ degrees). Did not think I would have many opportunities on Mt. Washington like this.
- Just below the upper rock ridge with quads cramping intermittently and now knowing I was going to ski down a run I had not seen before I wanted to make sure I had some legs left to ski down. I took a good 20 minute rest and Traversed over to the top of the Lip (Skiers Right of Sluice and Skiers left of Waterfall). I asked several surprised skiiers exactly where the correct line was (I am sure they were looking at my like I was nuts - and I would have thought the same thing if someone was asking me how to get down). Not only was I scared ****less to get cliffed out, but I knew even if I entered the lip correctly the crevasse was the ultimate black hole. I ended up waiting till I had seen several go down the lip before me. Overlooking the lip I heard the crowd roar. I had no idea what they were going on about until I witnessed the First Avalanche sliding into the ravine. From my vantage point I could not see that it had released from the Center Headwall underneath the rock Cliff band (the release points was hidden because of the pitch). At this point I could careless what a goofball I looked like with my avalung, ice axe, shovel, helmet, and probe on. I decided to take further egg on my face and shouted to the folks climbing up the boot steps to check my line. Someone shouted back that I was basically directly above the waterfall. Looking down the lip I was surprised as the skiing seemed very easy to me. I traversed over and sticking close to the boot step line until I could literally see the waterfall to my right and immediately cut over to ski next to the flank wall of the first avi. I had fun for at least four turns skirting my own sluff. At that point I was done. Enough for me. I Setup a snowbench in bottom of the ravine (out of the runout zone) near the trees to the skiiers left of the entrance. Then watched the zoo and circus show. I am really sorry for this coming commentary, I mean no disrespect to those that have been coming here for ages or have grown up experiencing Tucks, but to this virgin's eyes what I witnessed as the day progressed really was a total shock. My heart and prayers go out to anyone that was injured, but I truly don't understand some of the things I saw.
- 4 avalanches
- 1 when I was on the lip and had already made dumb decisions but had no choice but to haul a$$ down and get the flock off the 30+ pitches
- 1 took a snowboarder (you guys already saw the thread on this one). When this happened the echo of the fracture made me look backwards down the ravine, when I turned around he was already sliding. As it neared a stop I was two steps towards the run out with my pack. It happened fast and as it stopped and he stood up then fell over I stopped and looked around feeling kind of foolish (don't know why).
- 1 released farther up the Headwall above the first slide and almost pulled a skiier over a 10 foot rock/ice cliff lateral to the crevasse
- 1 released near the bootsteps (smallest of the four) undeneath the mid-point of The Chute.

My 2 Cents: I believe they were all wet slides about 12-18 inches of height in the flow. I base this on the conditions and the flow speed (20-30MPH). I don't believe anything that relased that day was slab which is probably the only reason TDawg stayed on the surface and also why none of the kids on sleds in the ravine were not hit by the head of the flow. From the few amount of slabs that I have seen started (all in resorts by explosives in roped off terrain) these avis were very slow moving. With a board strapped to his feet he certainly would have been dragged under (there is solid reasoning for releasable bindings with no leash in avi country).
- At least two carried out on litters
- one broken leg after hucking the center headwall rock band. I don't know when during the fall he broke his leg, but it seemed to me like he ran out into the scathed avalance path from the first slide (My guess is that snow was as hard as an ice rink) and ended up very near if not in the debris which was obviously rough and most likely hardened as well.
- one scalped head (I think) from 600 vertical foot fall down the chute
- One skiier slid over a cliff
- I watched him fall above the rock buttress that separates the chute from the headwall, he almost stopped, then began picking up speed again and He cartwheeled over rocky outcroppings then starfished over the vertical drop and impacted skis up. My guess is that it was about a 20-30 foot fall. I thought I witnessed death. He walked away with a bloody forehead miracously.
- On a good note: I saw two other skiiers with beacons on under jackets and wearing ski pants and as I read some of the other trip reports it is very apparent that there were many folks that either made the smart decision to let the Mountains do their thing on Saturday or at least were finding the safer runs with minimal risk. I can only hope to hook up with them next time and be a good disciple.
4:00PM Hiked to first aid cache at just before Ravine floor
skiied just below little headwall over to near the Christmas Tree and down to Ho Jos
Turn in for the night

[tgrant]

4-26-09
5:30AM Started to Break Camp.
Stretch and breakfast on the sun deck (solo) totally quiet. Rain during the night combined with warm temperaturs had turn most tracked snow to grey ice (very slick). I was concerned about heading down Sherburne solo as I had no idea how treacherous the ice would be and had never been down the trail. I ended up in the caretakers cabin checking the topos one last time before heading down (I think I woke Anthony up - sorry bro I was trying to be queit). I ended up waiting an hour for things to warm up.
7:00AM headed down Sherburne Ski Trail
First time skiing down with a 60lb pack. Ice, moguls, and lack of coverage forced lots of snowplowing and sliding. I Had to portage 3 times over mud infested creek crossings, but I was thankful not to have to walk the icy TR trail without crampons. I can only imagine how nice it would be to ski from the Ravine down the little headwall onto the Sherburne trail all the way to the parking lot (plenty of things to look forward to).

Just to top things off I got a good nose bleed that would not stop as I was walking down. I ended up breaking out my first aid kit to stuff gauze in my left nostril. When I got to the car at about 8:15AM I realized why so many people on the way up had asked if I was OK (I had a good amount of blood over my face). I was laughing a little, hoping the site of me coming down so early looking like a train wreck might have slowed a few of them down for the Sunday show, probably wishful thinking.

While I was certainly counting my blessings, it was truly an unforgettable weekend. As icing on the cake when I got back to Massachussetts in 80 degree weather I could not resist putting the Stand up paddleboard in the water for the first time this Spring. As a native Southern California boy it was an epic day pulling my 12' LAIRD onto the dock at Dusk knowing I had just skiied down from Ho Jo's earlier that morning. Skiing in the morning and Surfing in the afternoon. Truly a BlueBird day!

Hooked on Tuck's with a dose of humble pie,
-tg

[Rider.Steve]

Great report and a really nice read!

That ski out on sunday must have been something!

[M@]

No Pix?

Thanks for the report.

Did you talk to the rangers at all?

M@

[ILOVE2SKI]

Very cool read! Skiing and surfing ont he same day sounds like a good day to me. Props.

[tgrant]

No Pix?

Thanks for the report.

Did you talk to the rangers at all?

M@

I talked to the rangers at Ho Jo's on Friday, Did not see any on Sat till I was already down. I did a poor job of seeking them out Saturday morning. The snowbench was setup after hearing their advice about falling ice (and seeing the First avi come down). Very close to where they were perched most of the day (above little headwall). I did try and keep abreast of the reports from Jeff and thanked them for all their hard work Sat about 5PM at Ho Jo's again.

Best guess... how many folks are wearing beacons? Must be frustrating for them.

[tgrant]

No Pix?

Thanks for the report.

Did you talk to the rangers at all?

M@


I bailed the camera, GPS, inclinometer, water from my camelback, wallet (kept ID in my front pocket and some cash), as well as a few other items to shed weight after I put my pack on the scale. I figured plenty of pics from other folks :)

[petebanta]

Very thorough, and brutally honest, report. Thank you.

I think you were doing your best to be smart and largely showed good judgement. Glad you found a safe route down. Maybe next time it would be better to head right into Lobster Claw. Yes, it is also above rocks, but the grade is mellower, and this seemed to be the most prudent choice that day.

Yes, in my experience, most do not go to Tux with proper gear. Such is freedom of choice... provided they knew where they were and what the actual risks are... and even then, I don't think it is a good idea. I have seen and learned enough over these 10 years to have learned that it never hurts to wear a transceiver, and one of the main reasons is that you NEVER know.

It boils down to 1 simple rule - Going into avy terrain? Then bring avy gear. Let them snicker, if they must. They may eat that laughter one day...

[Seeker]

tgrant thanks for the write up! Always interesting to read a person's first impression of Tux. My lasting impression is what the human body can take. So many people ragdoll down the headwall with only (relatively) minor injuries. Amazing to me.

As you know, your pack was HEAVY! You should not feel bad for having to stop a lot on the way up. Yes, there are many here who would motor up with such a load, but these people are MACHINES. ;):p Seriously, the folks who post here are generally not your average Joe or Jil.

Reps for a fine report. :cool:

[SkiCheapOrDie]

Nice read.

[davidhowland14]

very well written and well-thought out report. rep delivered. scary day to be up there and you handled it and wrote about it well.

[crozzer]

Great read. I can attest to my brother's willingness to fully goober out on gear.

But hey, my first shasta summit was kinda the same way, LOL.

My buddy and I had 3 different caches on the way up where we alternately left our full packs, food for 2 days, the Backcountry Mountaineering book (think highschool biology textbook), ropes for 2, etc... Only to turn around and head for safety after the first basketball-sized ice ball flew by, like silent death, within a few feet of his head...

Needless to say, summit #2 was a bit more light and fast (and successful).

Great read, I can totally picture sitting there and watching :yardsale: all day long. next time bring a beer ;-)

[RR]

Very nice roportage. Welcome Home.

[tgrant]

Does anyone know where detailed reports about the avalanches would Be? Looking to get a better understanding to solidify actual experience etc...

[DMC]

Does anyone know where detailed reports about the avalanches would Be? Looking to get a better understanding to solidify actual experience etc...

http://tuckerman.org/avalanche/archives/

[yuckster]

These were wet slab avalanches, as you can see from the way the crown line fans out in the photos below. These slab releases started at a trigger point and the fracture lines propagated outward from there.

Under dry conditions, in order for an avalanche to be possible, you need unstable snow sitting on a slope steeper than about 25 degrees, but most of the time dry avalanches happen on slopes greater than 30 degrees unless instability is extreme, for example due to buried surface hoar or advanced facets.

However due to the extreme weakness of wet slabs, and the bed surfaces being lubricated by water, wet slab releases can run on slopes as low as (correct me if I'm wrong) 18 degrees or so, once they are triggered.

http://www.tuckerman.org/photos/tucks/images/2009-04-25%201st%20avalanche.jpg

http://www.tuckerman.org/photos/tucks/images/2009-04-25%202nd%20avalanche.jpg

[tgrant]

Yuckster,

When I saw the first one go while I was standing at the top of the lip, my first incliniation was also that it was a wet one, but this was based more on the flow speed and characteristics. I appreciate both of the posts above, but I guess I was looking for more detailed characteristics from the rangers (the avalanche archives are simply archives of the predictions.) I don't know if more detailed reports after the avalanche are provided anywhere?

[yuckster]

Yuckster,

When I saw the first one go while I was standing at the top of the lip, my first incliniation was also that it was a wet one, but this was based more on the flow speed and characteristics. I appreciate both of the posts above, but I guess I was looking for more detailed characteristics from the rangers (the avalanche archives are simply archives of the predictions.) I don't know if more detailed reports after the avalanche are provided anywhere?

Generally only if there is an injury or a rescue required, unfortunately.

But those are at: http://www.tuckerman.org/accident/accident.htm

[tgrant]

Thanks again yuckster...

What are thoughts on protecion in the boot steps? do many folks with skis on the shoulder and poles in the other hand have experience with various mountainering protection techniques but feel safe enough? shorts and T-shirt seems naked to me (even if it is more comfortable based on temp), am I nuts? Have there been falls (taking the boot step troops with them I would suppose at least occasionally)? Just seemed odd to me looking at the run out of Right Gully (significant exposed Lunch Rocks prior to pitche getting lower than 35 and dead center of the fall line).

very curious....

[petebanta]

I don't think the wetness was the main factor (though I bet it added some weight, increasing odds it would fail).

From what I read, this was a classic upside-down slab. So lighter stuff fell, and then heavier, wind-packed snow was put on top. Percolation may have contributed to weakening the layer that failed, but it did not release for those reasons. In each instance, either snow dropping, or a person hard-cutting made it so that it went past the breaking point. The video of the first avalanche shows how it propogated - Classic slab fail with the way it fragmented. Though it did look more wet-ish once it got going, likely just because the slab had become wetter, as it baked in the sun.

Wet slides, I believe (and I am NO expert), are more the water weight adds stress, and the water filters down and percolates through towards bottom, and then the base of the path loses support and is too much weight to hold up, and down she goes. The ones last weekend do not appear to be that.

BTW, it can happen at resorts, too (wet slides). I have seen (after-the-fact) the Chinclip trail at Stowe have a 150yd section slide off down to the mud. It faces south and gets lots of gain, and this was towards bottom, where the run-out was gone, and so therefore not supporting the slope any more. BIG pile ice chunks/wet snow in the bottom. and dirts and rocks above.

If you were in it, you'd be squished like a bug. :(

Here is better video showing the 1st slide. (http://www.vimeo.com/4411388) Skip to 10 minute mark to avoid the rest (though it is good).