Climbing up over headwall in April

[NtrentT]

Hey everyone,
As you know im going to tucks in Mid April for some two planking.

It will be my first time and I plan on climbing over tucks and exploring the snow fields above first.

Im assuming the climb will be difficult in just straight ski boots, right?

What would you people suggest, Crampons that clip on to ski boots

OR

Keeping boots in bag, and use hiking boots with crampons.


I would prefer the hike up in my ski boots.

Do they make crampons that clip onto ski boots?

How much if so.

What would be the best way.

Thanks All

[M@]

whoa! An actual tuckerman question... been a while.

The mid april hike up the headwall is usually done in ski boots for me. There will be "steps" made by the thousand other hikers that went before you (assuming you're on the wall after 9am)

My continuing opinion on crampons is that you should bring them if you have them, and wear them if you encounter conditions that warrent. I don't own any and have wished I had them for about 200 yards of the tuckerman trail each year. I don't think I would have used them hiking up the ski trail.

[RR]

In early April there's some pretty solid conditions in the Ravine and on the Snowfields. That's especially true on gloomy days.

Crampons will make a big difference on firm days, especially after the late April rains have morphed the steps into very tricky dents in a likely to be frozen surface. Pons are a big help in such conditions.

Take your skiboots when you go to get crampons. Lots of them won't fit your boots. Best to find out in the store!

Get "hiking/glacier travel" crampons with "front points". Good ones are available under $100. Servicable ones can be had for under $75. Whatever you do, don't get "Instep Crampons", they are useless on the headwall. These are my pick BD Contact (strap) (http://www.bdel.com/gear/alpinism/contact_strap.php), I have also used them to climb waterfall ice up to grade WI4.

Step-in crampons are not called for, unless you are going to get into ice climbing. I use strap-on crampons for my telly boots and hiking boots. They seem to work just fine.

[Jolly J]

I second what RR said. Crampons are good if the conditions warrant. But not always needed. I bring mine every trip since I bought them and have used them 50% of the trips. They are a nice added security but are not always necessary. I tried several pairs from Mountain Equipment Co-op (http://www.mec.ca) They shipped them to me and let me try them on my boots and I found a pair that strapped on that fit on both my Alpine Ski Boots and my hikers. I do have to adjust the footprint size to do so which is only one screw. I then shipped the ones I didn't want back. Other than that, left or right gully is probably your easiest access to the snowfields but that is condition dependant as well.

<<edited for grammer>>

[NtrentT]

Through everyone's recomendations on lots of things ive inquired about no one has mentioned E.M.S.
Is there a problem with E.M.S?

Just wondering

Thanks

[Jolly J]

There is no EMS in Canada or at least around here. MEC is a Coop so you have to be a member or an owner to buy from them. Ownership costs 5 dollars for a lifetime. The nice thing is as an owner, you always get the best in customer service. Plus if you live south of our border you dollar goes a he!! of a lot further.

[SkiStooge]

I can personally say that I have NEVER had a prob at EMS. Decent prices, excellent quality, good people, etc. I can honestly recommend EMS. Damn, I sound like a commercial. lol Have fun, be safe. Al :skistooge:

[RR]

I work part-time at EMS. It's early for the new winter tools but check the Clearence racks in the stores for decent gear...their online products listing isn't the best.

Strangely enough REI has a similar situation.

[half-fast]

just about all step-in crampons work with ski boots

[kfarrar]

RR -

Which EMS do work at? I think I've shopped at nearly every one in the state.

[RR]

Comm Ave Boston, Store #1

[kfarrar]

One of the store I have not been to.

[NH_tele]

I don't generally need crampons up in the Bowl. However, I do have a pair with me, and they fit nicely on my Scarpa T2's